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The Geiyo Islands, which are scattered in the Seto Inland Sea, have attracted attention since ancient times. That is, until 1999, when the last link of the Shimanami Kaido opened, connecting Honshu and Shikoku and passing through six small islands.
Planners had the foresight to build a 70-kilometer bike path that runs alongside the highway and crosses many bridges. This bike path has since evolved into Japan’s most popular long-distance cycling route. And thanks to the island’s many cultural attractions, diverse dining experiences, and the addition of several luxury accommodations, the region now offers a wide range of experiences for all travelers.
“The Shimanami Kaido is known worldwide for cycling, but the deeper charm of this region lies in the daily life of the islands formed by the Seto Inland Sea,” says Daisuke Furubayashi, who manages Hotel WAKKA, which also has a cafe and cycling support center on Omishima.
“The sea here is characterized by its calmness, and the islands have small operating fishing ports and old citrus farms. What travelers often notice is the coexistence of tourism and normal daily life.”
Located in the heart of the Geiyo Islands, roughly halfway between the highway and the bike route, Omishima is the most convenient base for those who want to spend a few days on the island and explore off the main roads. The island is home to some of the most iconic sites on the Shimanami Route, including the stunning Tatara Bridge.
“Islands are not destinations like theme parks; they are still communities where people live,” Daisuke says. “Aside from cycling, guests enjoy coastal walks, bridge lookouts, small local restaurants and cafes, seasonal citrus landscapes and the slow rhythm that is becoming increasingly rare in larger destinations.”
A path leads from the island’s coastal plain, winding through dense forests to the Tateishi Observatory, which offers panoramic views of the peak of Mt. Washigatama, Eboshi Rock, and the Seto Inland Sea. The island is also home to the futuristic Toyo Ito Architectural Museum and several art collections.
But Omishima’s main claim to fame is the stunning Oyamazumi Shrine. Dedicated to the gods of mountains, sea, and war, this complex was founded around the 7th century AD and is considered a guardian shrine for all of Japan. As a result, many Japanese generals and samurai visited the shrine to obtain the blessing of their weapons with the approval of the god of war.
The treasury preserves many artifacts from these historic visits.
“Oyamazumi Shrine houses a whopping 80 percent of Japan’s samurai-era tools that are designated as national treasures or important cultural properties,” says Beth Reiber, author of several books on Japan and official ambassador to Japan.
“It’s an amazing collection of swords, helmets and armor that don’t seem to be found anywhere else, donated over the centuries by warriors who wanted to show their gratitude for their victories in battle.”
There is also a camphor tree in Oyamazumi that is said to be about 2,600 years old and has been designated as a national natural monument. Legend has it that if you circle this rugged giant three times (while holding your breath) your wish will come true.
The next island, Hakata, is one of the best places for swimming in the Seto Inland Sea, especially the wide sandy Hakata coast and the secluded Okiura coast.
From there, a huge suspension bridge crosses the strait to Oshima. It’s home to the Murakami Pirate Museum, which traces the archipelago’s legacy as a medieval pirate haunt. Also known as the Murakami Suigun, these pirates were a maritime clan, sometimes allied with land-based warlords. From the museum, you can see the ruins of a pirate castle on the small island of Noshima across the bay.
Oshima also offers the rare opportunity for seaside camping along the secluded sandy beaches of Yurakume. It may not be traditional Japanese cuisine, but nearby Setouchi Bagel offers hot and cold drinks and fresh pastries, including a special Shimanami Bagel offering.
On the other hand, Ikuchijima is famous for growing citrus fruits. Taste the local bounty with a sip of lemon or tangerine sorbet at Dolce, an ice cream shop in Setoda Town. On the other side of town is the eclectic Kosanji Temple, home to numerous shrines and pagodas, as well as a quirky, abstract rock garden made entirely of white marble.
“The history of Kosanji Temple is that it was built in 1936 by a local businessman to honor his mother,” Leiber explains. “He spent the next 30 years building full-size replicas of Japan’s famous temples and shrines. If you’ve ever wondered what the Hall of Dreams at Nara’s Horyuji Temple looked like, or missed the chance to take a photo of Nikko’s Yomeimon Gate, here’s your chance.”
For those looking to spend a few days on Ikuchijima, Azumi Setoda is a recent addition to the luxury ryokan family. This inn is a contemporary inn that combines modern luxury with homely hospitality.
On the other hand, there are some attractive islands in the archipelago that can only be reached by ferry or private boat, such as Osaki Shimojima. During the Tokugawa Shogunate (1603-1868), it was known as a geisha teahouse frequented by political and military figures. It recently became famous again as a filming location for the Oscar-winning film Drive My Car (2021).
Although the geishas have long since left, Mitarai Town’s historic Virgo has regained its former glory. Built in 1937, it hosts a variety of traditional and cultural performances, including classical music concerts, dance, theater, storytelling, seasonal festivals, heritage programs, films, and occasional geisha-style entertainment events. Vintage Japanese movie posters line the walls, and tatami mats provide seating for performances.
The theater is surrounded by other historic buildings in the Mitarai Townscape Preservation District, a fine example of mid-19th century small-town architecture.
“Mitarai still retains the atmosphere of a historic port town that once flourished along the Seto Inland Sea route,” says Mitsuki Ogino, executive director of Tourism Kure, which oversees the promotion of Osaki-Shimojima.
“Walking through the streets feels like you’ve stepped back in time, with beautifully preserved Edo and Meiji period buildings, traditional merchant houses, and beautiful ocean views. Unlike crowded tourist destinations, Mitarai offers a quiet and authentic experience of Japan’s maritime heritage and local life.”
Mitarai is also home to small guesthouses, traditional inns, and luxury hotels that have been converted from historic homes and operated as boutique accommodations.
Ogino added, “I highly recommend staying overnight. You can enjoy the quiet evening atmosphere after the day trippers have left, sample local cuisine, and take your time to enjoy the charm of this historic town.”
Japanese rabbit island
Another adventure is to take the ferry to Okunoshima. This island, also known as Rabbit Island, is home to many very friendly wild rabbits.
No one knows for sure, but many local residents say they were released by Japanese pet owners or elementary school students decades ago. However, some believe the rabbits were reportedly left behind when the island’s top-secret factory closed at the end of World War II.
Visitors can learn more about the island’s dark history at the Okunoshima Poison Gas Museum and visit the remains of a gas factory. There are also grassy waterfront campsites, hotels, restaurants, and great swimming beaches.
According to Furubayashi, tours to Usagi Island are one of WAKKA’s most popular activities, along with guided paddleboard tours to uninhabited islands, fishing in the Seto Inland Sea, and seasonal food-related experiences such as citrus and strawberry picking.
Another way to explore local waters is by taking a guided kayak tour.
“It’s amazing!” says Miho Ogura, co-owner of Hidden Japan Travel, a tour company that offers guided cycling and sea kayaking in Shimanami.
“Kayaking allows you to see this amazing location from a different perspective. Currents can be strong so we always hire experienced local guides who know the sea well. It’s really great to go into the sea for a dip or take a break on a deserted beach while kayaking.
Ogura added that while kayaking is very accessible, it also allows kayakers to visit less populated and more timeless areas of the archipelago.
“We prefer to use traditional lodging such as inns and bed and breakfasts, which are owned by locals who have lived on the island their entire lives. You can also kayak straight to the hotel.”
