Psadek, Cambodia
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When asked what the most underrated destination is, Nao Sok, who has been guiding tourists around Cambodia for many years, answered unequivocally, “Udon.”
Located about 35 kilometers (22 miles) from Phnom Penh, this city was the capital of Cambodia from 1618 to the mid-1860s.
The name udon is often derived from the Sanskrit word “utunga” meaning “high,” “high,” or “supreme.” Officially, it is Phnom (“mountain” or “hill”) Udon on the map.
Although the country’s seat of power moved over 150 years ago, udon still holds deep meaning for the Cambodian royal family. This hill complex houses several ornate pagodas, as well as relics, carvings, and sacred artifacts. There are a total of 16 pagodas that house the remains of Cambodian kings.
There are over 500 steps to the top, and the climb is colorful. Buddhist flags hang among the trees, locals offer fruit and flowers, and orange-robed monks weave their way through nearby rice fields to temples.
At its peak, Udon was known as “the city of a thousand monasteries.”
Perched atop a 93-meter (approximately 300-foot) hill, the most magnificent of these structures is a temple that appears to be made of bright silver lace with intricate patterns. It is carved with an elephant representing strength and longevity. A magnificent golden Buddha statue is enshrined inside.
A nearby stone pagoda has tall, impressive pillars with four Buddha faces, one for each direction. From a distance, you can see faces peeking out from behind the tall trees, giving it an eerie and magical atmosphere, especially on cloudy days.
While udon (sometimes written as udon or ondong) is a popular day trip for locals in Phnom Penh, it is largely unknown to international tourists.
Sok said many tourists rush through Phnom Penh on their way to Angkor Wat (a Hindu-Buddhist temple complex that is Cambodia’s top tourist attraction) or Southeast Asian countries like Vietnam.
When Cambodia became a French protectorate, King Norodom moved the capital from Udon to Phnom Penh. In the 20th century, civil wars related to the Vietnam War left much of the country in ruins. Since then, some regions have recovered faster than others.
As a result, Udon Hill has not yet given up all its treasures.
Unlike Angkor Wat, which takes days to explore, Udon can be seen in a few hours. For visitors who make this trip, it serves as a bridge between the ancient world of Angkor and the modern hustle and bustle of Phnom Penh, helping to fill in an important historical gap. And unlike Angkor, it remains a living ruin, with new structures still being built.
“The characteristic of the post-Angkor ruins is that almost nothing remains. Yes, there was a capital with a very important palace, but everything was made of wood,” explains Gregory Mikaelian of France’s National Center for Scientific Research.
Underground radar has detected more structures on and around the hill, but repair efforts have been slow and inconsistent. Cambodia nominated Udon to UNESCO’s World Heritage Committee in 2020, but it was not added to the list.
“Think of it as a combination of the hill, the monastery at the foot of the hill, the ruins of the old palace of Oudon, and the citadel of Longvek,” Michaelian says. “It’s important to understand that there’s not just one thing to see, but small things in several places.”
Mikaelian believes the situation could change in the coming years. The Cambodian government is investing heavily in tourism infrastructure, including the increase in UNESCO World Heritage Sites.
Earlier this year, a large new Phnom Penh Airport opened to serve the capital Phnom Penh. The $2 billion project is part of an ambitious multi-year plan to attract more international tourists to Cambodia’s less-visited southern region.
So what does a trip to Udon entail?
Tour guide Nao Sok recommends visiting early in the morning or in the evening, as well as to escape Cambodia’s notoriously intense heat.
“When we talk about Udon, it’s not just the palace and the mountains. It’s the scenery,” he says. He tells his customers that the early morning departure time is worth watching the sun rise over the complex.
He also recommends that travelers make this experience a full day by visiting the nearby Cambodian Buddhist Vipassana Center, which offers meditation experiences for tourists, before stopping at the Udon market and visiting homestays and local restaurants to experience everyday Cambodian life.
Travelers who have visited Angkor Wat will notice that udon is noticeably different. There are no shops, souvenir shops, or vending machines. Admission is free, but there are no signs or maps, and cell phone service is spotty.
Tour company Asia Desk provides air-conditioned vehicles and English-speaking guides. Additionally, they provide water and snacks, which are hard to find in Udon.
When entering a temple or meditation center, visitors should ensure that their shoulders and knees are covered, even in high temperatures.
British writer Marissa Carruthers, who has lived in Phnom Penh since 2012, visits Udon regularly and takes her friends when they visit from abroad.
She focuses on small places that are often overlooked among the ornate pagodas. It is a memorial to the victims of the Khmer Rouge regime, which killed at least 1.7 million Cambodians in the late 1970s.
Although it strikes a different chord than other tourist attractions, she believes that “Cambodia’s dark past should be respected and visited when visited.”
“A trip to Udon gives you an authentic glimpse into Cambodia’s past without the tourist crowds, gives you the chance to interact with locals, and gives you some great social photos,” she added.
