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Arakol, Kyrgyzstan —
A few dozen steps over snow-covered scree remain until you reach the top of the pass, finally reaching a panorama of mountain ridges against a background of blue glacial water.
The surrounding mountains are known as the “Heavenly Mountains”, loosely translated from Tengil Tu in Kyrgyzstan and Tien Shan in Chinese, and from my position now on top of the world, it’s hard to argue with this. Views of Lake Alakol are the highlight of the many attractions on the 110-mile, 110-kilometre trekking route through Kyrgyzstan.
The Aksu Transverse Trail (AST) explores some of the most beautiful regions of Kyrgyzstan’s Tien Shan Mountains. In the past, this climb was only possible for hardcore hikers willing to carry heavy packs containing several days’ worth of tents, food, and clothing.
Recently, it has become possible to walk this route with only a day’s worth of bags, thanks to entrepreneurs who have repurposed bozi yurts (traditional circular tents used seasonally by nomadic shepherds) to create a network of relatively comfortable accommodation in this remote wilderness.
I was about to head to the coast of Aracol, the sixth yurt stop of my cross-country expedition, when a sudden storm rolled in from the southern horizon, gradually thickening the fog until it became a complete deluge. The chilly rain soaks into my layers as I say goodbye to a few other trekkers and head alone down the side road directly to the lake shore a few hundred meters below.
The descent from the pass is clouded with doubts. Will I be able to find a yurt camp if the rain continues? Is there anyone willing to let me in at the beginning of the season? Why do I keep doing this?
As darkness and self-doubt loom and the waves of the lake crash against the rocks beneath my feet, I hear my name called from above. “SteeeeeffffeeeEENNNN.” The screams grew louder and louder until a figure jumped straight down the slope and disappeared around a curve in the lakeshore.
He turned out to be the host of the camp. I followed him to the yurt, and when I walked through the door 30 minutes later, tea was ready and plov, a hearty Central Asian staple of rice, meat, and vegetables, was on the stove.
As I took off my wet clothes in the radiant warmth, I knew it was worth the money to stay in the yurt.
Starting in Jyrgalan, an ecotourism center in Kyrgyzstan’s far east, the Aksu Trans-Hiking Trail climbs seven mountain passes and more than 21,600 feet of elevation. In summer, alpine lakes and cascading waterfalls set in the Jairu meadows, grazed by shepherds.
It was typically completed in nine days and included overnight stays in yurts along the entire route.
Shepherds’ felt yurts have been a staple of Kyrgyzstan’s landscape for centuries. They emerge from village warehouses every spring, and since collectivization during the Soviet era, few of even the hardiest shepherds have remained completely nomadic. After summer, they follow herds of sheep, horses, cows, and yaks into the mountains to graze across the best pastures.
In 2024, local trail guide turned entrepreneur Daniyal Alimbekov transformed his Kyrgyzstan Life Tours company from an expedition team of guides, chefs, and porters to a complete network of yurt camps along the route.
Alimbekov said he was inspired to set up accommodation after seeing the three camps already on the route thriving. He originally thought of adding just three more locations. “But later I realized it was going to grow and I needed to get the AST completely,” he added.
The camp has now expanded to include a small village, and despite some logistical challenges, business continues to boom.
“We also faced the problem of finding staff to be very complicated, especially since it is a seasonal job. The number of bookings has increased over the years, but we used to be able to accommodate a maximum of two or three large groups. Today, we have up to 40 to 50 tours per day across all camps, and we still have space.”
In contrast to most trekking routes in Kyrgyzstan, the Aksu Transverse’s wild mountain passes can be hiked solo with just a daypack and two trekking poles.
Kyrgyzstan Life’s yurt camps provide food, shelter, and even bedding, so trekkers only need a change of clothes and a camera to make the most of their trek. No tent, sleeping bag, or heavy groceries means no need for a large backpack either.
A lighter bag will allow you to explore more freely. There are opportunities to scramble up side hikes to the 14,600-foot Tashtanbek Tor Bashi peak observation platform and the small lake-studded side valleys of Boz Yuçuk and Anytor valleys.
For Alimbekov, this possibility of opening up Kyrgyzstan’s most beautiful natural spaces to visitors previously inaccessible is one of the key advantages of the yurt-to-yurt hike.
“It used to be more complicated because we had to carry tents and everything ourselves, but now you don’t have to be a trekker to handle it,” he says. “This is the third year, and on some days this year there are even more tourists visiting the section from Jirgalan to Alashan than from Alashan to Jeti Oguz.
“Many people see this trail as a challenge, traversing seven passes and 100 kilometers like a marathon of sorts. Starting this year, we have started awarding ‘Ak Su Finisher’ medals to guests who stamp at each yurt camp along the trail.”
Halfway through the hike, the difference is obvious. Years ago, trekkers might have seen only a few shepherds during the first five days or the last two days of this route, but I encountered a group of hikers heading towards Aracol.
The mood is upbeat as we take a breath-taking step towards the Anytor Pass, disappointed by the false saddle 820 feet below the main ridge. The general consensus is that this kind of wilderness is becoming increasingly difficult to find in popular tourist destinations, as there are no roads, elevators, or any real infrastructure in this remote area.
At the top of the final scramble to the Arakol Pass, the sore legs and long distance quickly fade from memory. Where the Transverse joins the more popular three-day excursion through the Altyn Alashan hot springs to Lake Arakol and on to the Karakol Valley, the solitude is temporarily alleviated, but the scenery is even more spectacular.
Beyond the lake and the mile-long Takhiltor Glacier that feeds it, layers of mountains more than 16,000 feet high form a full-size panorama that will remain in your memory long after your rain-soaked boots are forgotten. And there’s always a hot pot of tea waiting for you at the nearby yurt camp.
“As someone who has hiked several times around the world, this trail has it all,” says Tara Fenwick Smith, an American hiker who completed the AST. “Difficult mountain passes, lush valleys with snow-capped mountains, rushing rivers with steep crossings, more horses than people, and the odd friendly shepherd who invites you into his yurt for chai after not seeing a tourist in months.
“Not only did we get some great views of the Kyrgyzstan hinterland, but we also got a glimpse of the incredibly warm culture there. I can’t recommend this hike more highly. Bring your raincoat!”
Karakol’s airport (IKG), the center of the trek, has been designated for international flights since its long-awaited reopening in 2024, but the only flights currently operating are domestic flights between Kyrgyzstan’s capital Bishkek and southern Osh.
Nearby Issyk-Kul International Airport (IKU) has seasonal flights from Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan, and Russia, and Bishkek’s Manas International Airport (BSZ) provides easy access to major airports in Europe, the Middle East, and Asia.
All-inclusive self-guided hikes that include a yurt stay and three meals daily start from 5,600 Kyrgyzstan som (approximately $64 USD) per day when booked directly through Kyrgyzstan Life.
Guides and horses are also available for an additional fee if required, but for smaller, budget-conscious groups, weekly departures are also available during the summer high season. When hiking the Aksu Transect independently, hikers should be prepared to pay a nominal entrance fee of approximately 300 Kyrgyzstan Som (approximately $3.50 USD) at the entrance to Karakol National Park, as well as transportation to and from the trailhead.
